With only partial success in catching some shuteye on the long-delayed four-hour flight from Lisbon to Dakar, our patience wore increasingly thin on a less than triumphant arrival into the Portuguese capital. First, we were made to wait on the tarmac for an extra 45 minutes while the captain waited for a gate to free up. After deplaning and clearing immigration, we discovered that our luggage was nowhere to be found. After 90 minutes of back-and-forth with the lost luggage desk, we finally learned that the airport baggage handler had simply forgotten to unload the luggage from the plane. By the time we made our way out of the airport, it was 1:30 p.m. (putting us roughly six-and-a-half hours behind schedule). We thankfully arrived at our nicely-appointed hotel in Lisbon’s central Avenida district, the Hotel Britania, shortly thereafter. Our need for an early check-in had long since diminished and we instead focused on getting some much-needed rest.After the rocky start, we quickly settled into our new surroundings. As the only surviving 1940’s Art Deco hotel designed by the famous Portuguese architect, Cassiano Branco, the Hotel Britania boasted interior space that was equal parts comfortable and charming. Pouring ourselves into a plush king-sized bed, we took a quick cat nap before planning an urban dinner excursion. Having inadvertently fasted for the previous twenty-four hours, we were especially ravenous. Unfortunately, our timing conspired against us as virtually every restaurant in the city was closed on Sunday. Only after much reconnaissance did Vik finally manage to locate sustenance; he convinced an Indian restaurant catering to tour groups to open its kitchen two hours early on our behalf. Back at our hotel, we enjoyed our carryout meal atop our private sun deck with prominent views of the setting sun.
The next morning, after breakfasting in our hotel’s historic bar, we made the atypical decision to patronize Lisbon’s uber-touristy hop-on, hop-off double-decker bus. Having only one day to see the city in all of its glory, time was at a premium. While we would normally eschew stock tours, we relented just this once in the name of pragmatism and efficiency. After catching the bus a block away from our hotel, we ventured upstairs to bask in the sun and open air. With a backdrop of bright blue skies framing Lisbon’s prominent landmarks, we had to sheepishly admit that our vantage point was not without its advantages. Ever the diligent photographer, Kaberi marveled at her sightlines while wondering how to once again enjoy such height without actually having to board an inconspicuous red bus for tourists.
We made our way down the Avenida de Liberdade taking in a surprisingly large number of monuments and statues commemorating major persons and events in Portuguese history including Plaza Restauradores, Terreiro do Paco, Marques de Pombal and Parque Edwardo VII. The bus also whisked us through the redeveloping Alcantara waterfront area and past multiple monuments dedicated to great maritime expeditions and 15th and 16th century discoveries. The most impressive sight of the day was, by far, the UNESCO-designated Monestario de los Jeronimos, a prominent example of elaborate Manueline architecture. Our grand plans of stepping inside the Monestario were temporarily put on hold until we returned the following week.
After having our fill of the bus tour, we alighted in the Baixa district to make our way up the charming, old Elevador de Santa Justa. Covered with flowery lattice work reminiscent of the Eiffel Tower (it was designed by a disciple of Eiffel) and comprising two circular staircases and wood-carved compartments, the elevator provided a brisk upward journey to an open-air pavilion with commanding and sweeping views of the city and the waterfront. Shortly thereafter, we continued down the block to catch Lisbon’s Tram Number 28, famed for weaving a picturesque route through the inclines of the Barrio Alto and the formerly-Muslim Alfama districts. Navigating impossibly-narrow streets and unannounced corners, the tram soon revealed magnificent views of the Castelo and one or two cathedrals overlooking the water below. In addition, the alternating beautifully tiled homes snd itricately carved sculptures on buildings provided much to admire along the way. As late afternoon approached, we proceeded to walk the Avenida de Liberdade and admire its complicated stone sidewalk designs before returning to the hotel.
That evening, we hailed a taxi to the Barrio Alto, the hub of Lisbon’s nightlife. Walking uphill through narrow and winding alleys, we finally located our dinner spot a few steps away from a funicular landing. Heralded as a venue for Lisbon’s foodies, the restaurant Oliver offered a nine-course, prix-fixe degustation menu. The small portions brimming with flavor quickly awoke our palates without making us feel stuffed. Delighted by each bite, we quickly gained an appreciation for modern Portuguese cuisine. After dinner, we descended the sparsely-lit Gloria staircase before walking back to our hotel. Strolling after dinner while observing the passing activity proved to be a fitting ending to a very full day.
The next morning, after an early morning treat of pastéis de nata (traditional Portuguese egg tarts), we caught the 7:00 a.m. intercity train from Lisbon’s Santa Apalonia station to Portugal’s northeastern port city of Porto. As the train approached the destination, we caught a glimpse of Porto’s distinctive and celebrated waterfront district where red-tiled buildings were arranged in neat rolling tiers above the shoreline. After a short metro ride to Porto’s sleek white and glass airport, we checked in for our flight to Dublin. Our forty-eight hours in Portugal had seemingly passed in a flash. We were thankful we had a night scheduled back in Lisbon the night before we returned to the States to see our friends Kris and Handy and to further indulge in some of Lisbon's fine offerings.
